SELF DRAFTED DRESS PATTERN

So, below the dashed line is the draft (almost complete) of the dress I made but then I found a Vogue pattern 1288 which is similar and think they will have proper instructions and a graded pattern from a professional pattern maker, unlike yours truly who basically is a “pattern winger”.

V1288

This pattern is slightly different than mine. Mainly, it has an invisible zip at the back while mine has elastic at the waist and can be pulled over the head. Second, it does not have those nice pleats in the front which gives a bit of tulip shape to the skirt.

I found the pattern randomly on Very Purple Person’s blog and she lays out her steps of attaching the bodice to the lining, which resolved my issue mentioned in my draft at the bottom! Basically sew side seams of bodice and lining, then bodice to neck at arms and neck leaving a little gap at shoulder. Understitch. Then sew shoulder of bodice and dress and then slip stitch lining to bodice at shoulder seams. Not that difficult at all.

—-To document the steps for my own log, here’s the draft of instructions before getting a chance to put the pattern up here ———

I want to document my first ever self drafted garment. Actually that’s a lie, it’s based on an existing dress I had. I guess it should be first dress made without a ready pattern, which I can now make again and again.

Fabric: 2m main self fabric, 2m lining, 1/4 – 1/2″ elastic

Instructions:

0. Cut fabric according to the “pattern” below. These measurements are for a size xs (bust:32″, waist: 27″, hips: 34″)

1. Sew the top front lining to the top front around arm holes, neck and shoulder seams. Press. Repeat for the back. Turn inside out.

2. Pin and sew, front + back lining and front + back self, right sides together, along the side seams. Finish seams as desired.Press.

3. Attach the front and back pieces along the shoulder seams using french seams. Press.

4. Hem or serge the bottom for self top. Set aside.

5. Starting with the centre pleat, sew all the pleats in the skirt self, by stitching along the fold (to make the pleat) 1.5″ down, then across the width of the pleat. There are 8 pleats in all, 4 on each side.

6. Baste across all pleats within the 1/2″ seam allowance

7. Make 2, 1″ pleats on the lining. The width of the lining should now match the skirt. Pin and sew the skirt and lining along the waist, wrong sides together, using 1″ seam allowance. Press

8. Attach the bodice to the skirt. Pin and sew the skirt and bodice lining matching all side and centre seams, right sides together, using 1″ seam allowance. Press.

9. Fold 1/4″ seam allowance of skirt and bodice inside and press. Now pin and topstitch this to the skirt using 1/8″ seam allowance but do not sew all around. Leave a 2″ gap for the elastic.

10. Put the elastic in all the way around, zigzag stitch to make the elastic loop and then sew the remaining 2″ gap shut.

11. Hem the bottom of the skirt and hem/serge the bottom of the skirt lining. Press. Thats it! It’s done.

PS: In the original dress, the lining was stitched to the self and understitched all the way round which I couldn’t figure out how to do. Also, there was no visible seam at the shoulder when joining the front top with front back, which also I couldn’t work out.

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